roman holiday, part ii

The Morning After - Via Margutta, Spanish Steps, Trevi Fountain

After unintentionally spending the night in Joe' apartment at Via Margutta, 51--a street known for its creative types and art studios--Anne ventures out into the bright Rome afternoon. She means to go back to her (unnamed) country's embassy and to work. On her way, she is sidetracked by the enticements of the neighborhood, and finds herself window shopping and getting a haircut. Unbeknownst to her, Joe is following her in the hope of getting an exclusive story for his news service. At one point, desperate to get photos of Anne's haircut, he tries to steal a camera from a group of schoolgirls in front of the Trevi Fountain. He then pretends to be surprised to run into her when she stops for a gelato on the Spanish Steps.

Because my husband had business in this neighborhood, we spent several days getting to know its ins and outs.  It is touristy, definitely, but there is a lot of charm. It is easy to get comfortable here and do a little (or a lot) of window shopping.

Favorite things: The note in Violet's voice as she begged me to help her get a picture with the bride we had just seen married on the Spanish Steps; our stroll along Via Margutta, filled with hanging vines and unique shops and galleries; the sterling silver necklace I bought as a souvenir from Anna e Alex, which looks like it has been pressed with a wax seal; my interactions with the man who made a couple of handbags for me--he was like a character out of a novel, quiet and perhaps a bit sad, as well as incredibly sweet; Violet's proudly showing off her birthday cake bag, a gift from that same leather artisan; the drama and beauty of the very Baroque Trevi Fountain at night; watching Townes giggling and playing with his toes with the fountain as the backdrop.

When to go: Do the Spanish Steps first thing in the morning, before the tourists have descended. Wander the surrounding streets and perhaps make your way over to Via Margutta.  The Trevi fountain is best at night, when the lights and shadows enhance its effect.

What to know: This is a great place for shopping, window or otherwise. The area nearest to the Spanish Steps is filled with pricey shops (Chanel, Louis Vuitton) and similarly priced restaurants and tea salons. Via del Corso, a few blocks away, also has good shopping and is more reasonably priced, though it is filled with international brands (Sephora, H&M), rather than those specific to Italy. If you have the time and inclination, the Piazza del Popolo, the medieval entry point of the city and home to many famous Renaissance artists, is close by. The Basilica de Santa Maria del Popolo has a couple of my favorite Caravaggio paintings and is an impressive church.

We also found a couple of excellent salons here, should you wish to add a haircut to a Roman Holiday checklist. We intended to have it done, but ran out of time and I ended up cutting Violet's hair myself after we arrived in Spain. There is a Keats-Shelley House in this area, which would also make a decent Roman Holiday scavenger item, as they are mentioned several times in the film. By the way, food is no longer allowed on the Spanish Steps, and this includes gelato.

Where we ate: Tourist traps abound in this area, but we found the best pasta of our trip not far from the Trevi Fountain at L'Archetto, Via dell'Archetto, 26. I defy you to think up a type of spaghetti they don't serve, and it is all handmade. Steve had fruit on his (and it worked!). We had great gelato at midnight at San Crispino,Via della Panetteria, 42, near Trevi, and picked up a few groceries at the CarreFour Express near the Piazza di Espagna. We also ate at Babington's English Tea Room at the foot of the Steps, based on a recommendation in a fashion mag. Avoid it unless you don't mind spending a mint on tiny scones and mediocre omelets.

Parking: There is a large underground paid parking lot inside the Borghese Gardens, which spits you out through the Metro exit at the base of the Spanish Steps. There are several moving walkways and escalators, and a few stairs, so be prepared if you have a stroller. If you would rather look for street parking, beware of Roma (gypsy) ladies waving you into open spaces for a tip. These spaces are often permit only. We were booted, though luckily the parking police were quick to come set us free.