"When so I ponder, here apart, what shallow boons suffice my heart, what dust-bound trivia capture me,
I marvel at my normalcy."--Dorothy Parker

Friday, June 29, 2012

rome with kids

Rome can be unwieldy. A maze of streets spreads out in all directions, a feast for the eyes and the intellect and a serious test of stamina and patience. Our first time here, as newlyweds, we realized that more than a plan, we needed a mission, a treasure hunt of some kind. On that visit we hunted paintings by Caravaggio, an artist whose work we both admired, our search taking us to a dozen or more museums and churches, many off the well-beaten path, acquainting us with the city in a way that a guidebook would not have.

This time, catering to the tastes of a four-year-old girl, teenage nieces, and myself, we decided use the classic film Roman Holiday as our framework. We made a list of locations, activities, and subjects from the film, and then set out to find and do as many as possible. We added must-sees from our Lonely Planet guide to each intinerary, and, most importantly, attempted to find great food and gelato in the vicinity of each goal. Given the length of our visit, we decided to rent a place in the country and drive in most days, which made for a richer, less cacophonous experience.

It takes a few days to understand the relationship between the various neighborhoods and sites, so I'll post our treasure hunt in what I consider to be the ideal arrangement, not necessarily the way we actually did it. I will also include you-live-you-learn hints, just in case anyone else is crazy enough to try this!  My best tip? Go in December when there are no lines, no Americans, and gorgeous weather.

Rome Essentials
  • Google maps app & international data packages for our iPhones
  • BabyHawk mei tai carrier for the myriad of stairs that strollers can't negotiate
  • ZigZag City Guide, wearable fact cards for young kids
  • Bugaboo Chameleon or other stroller with large wheels for all those cobblestones

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