roman holiday, part i

The Meet Cute - Forum, Colosseum, Mouth of Truth

Joe and Princess Anne meet on a road (no longer in existence) inside the Forum, the remains of Rome's ancient city center, between the Temple of Saturn and the Arch of Titus. Later they tour the Colosseum and visit the Mouth of Truth, an ancient manhole cover now mounted outside of a church. It is said that if one is given to lying and puts a hand in the mouth, it will be bitten off.

Favorite things: The CG movie about the Forum at the Information Center across the street from the Forum (it can be hard to visualize ruins in their original state); the gorgeous church that we exited through after visiting the Mouth of Truth; the quartet of troubadours who wandered around the Colosseum singing Blackbird; Violet's refusal to put her hand in the Mouth of Truth, saying she had lied about washing her hands that morning.

When to go: Do this the first day or two of your visit. It's nice to get it out of the way, and while a must-do, it's probably the least fun you'll have in Rome. Do the Mouth of Truth first, then grab a late lunch. Aim to be at the Colosseum and Forum in the late afternoon, when the crowds have thinned & it's not quite so hot. Seriously.

What to know: The Forum hasn't been repaved for 1600 years or so and the exit is up a long flight of stairs, so don't bring a stroller. The Colosseum, on the other hand, has handicap access and brand new elevators, so you may want one there. The sun can be brutal, so bring a hat or parasol, sunscreen, and water. Entrance for the Forum, Colosseum, and Palatine Hill is combined and good for two days. Purchase entrance tickets at the Forum or Palatine Hill to avoid lines at the Colosseum.

Where we ate: Il Bocconcino, Via Ostilia, 23, was recommended by Lonely Planet and it was perfect. Fresh food prepared well, very nice waitstaff. Closed between lunch & dinner, so check the hours before you go.
Parking: Street parking just above the Colosseum, outdoor parking lot next to the Mouth of Truth.