Leaving Joe behind but taking her memories with her, Princess Anne returns to her royal duties. The following morning, during a press conference at the richly embellished palazzo that serves as Princess Anne's embassy, Joe and Irving reveal to her that they have been hiding their identities as members of the press, but demonstrate that they are now worthy of her trust. Anne and Joe share a secret, final goodbye.
Favorite things: Window shopping on the Via dei Coronari and dreaming about someday returning to Rome with time set aside solely for perusing its shops; the ceiling frescoes at the Palazzo Barberini; the way light enters through the dome of the Pantheon; the grand old Giolitti salon; the chocolate, and the rose- and lavender-scented goodies, from Ai Monasteri in their dark-wood-and-glass apothecary setting; knowing the neighborhood so well I could find my way around without a map.
When to go: Have a quick breakfast (you'll want to save room for later) and then hit the Palazzo Barberini. Sit down for a snack or early lunch at Giolitti and follow it up with their famous gelato (rumor has it that this was the gelato Audrey Hepburn was eating in Roman Holiday). Afterward, wander over to the Pantheon, then through the Piazza Navona to the Chiostro di Bramante for a modern art show and a light late lunch. Leave time for the shops of the Via dei Coronari, ending up at Ai Monasteri, on Corso del Rinascimento, somewhere between 4pm and 6:30pm.
What to know: The entrance to the Palazzo Barberini is not obvious, so ask directions; the Palazzo Barberini has both elevators and bathrooms large enough for baby care; Ai Monasteri is only open from 4pm to 7pm Monday, Wednesday, Friday. There is a nice lounge for resting (or breastfeeding) next to the cafeteria at Chiostro di Bramante.
Where we ate: Giolitti for rice balls and old-school gelato, excellent pizza-by-the-slice at Pizza Zaza in the Piazza Sant' Eustachio, near the Pantheon, with serious Italian hot chocolate across the way at Sant Eustache. The cafeteria at Chiostro di Bramante was beautifully modern, with equally modern food, and is situated in a former church, now a small museum. There were also a couple of very appealing cafes on the Via dei Coronari. Next time...
Parking: Street parking next to the river. Venture farther into this neighborhood of tiny one way streets at your own risk.
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